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Bon Appetit

October, 2012

Garganelli with Fennel and Pork Shoulder Ragu

Page 21

| Course Type: Main Courses

(1 review)
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Tags: ground pork

Recipe Review

14th October 2012

Zosia from Toronto, ON

Anticipation for this dish was high based on its mouth-watering aroma during cooking but it was quite a let down in the end.

The ground pork is simmered for hours in white wine, chopped tomatoes and chicken stock after first being formed into large meatballs, browned and cooked with (lots of) minced fennel and onion. The meatballs are broken down into smaller pieces just before serving. I suppose if it’s important to you to have different textures of meat in your sauce, soft, moist pieces from the meatball interior and crispy, chewy bits that are browned, then this technique makes sense. I would have been quite happy either leaving the meatballs intact or not forming them at all and just browning the ground meat at the start as you would for a slow-cooked Bolognese.

The major disappointment involved the seasoning: even though I used less salt than the recipe called for in the meatball mix, salt-free tomatoes and low-sodium stock (as per the recipe), the ragù was extremely salty. I was glad that it was a little thick towards the end …I added water instead of more stock.

The combination of ingredients worked: the pork had that deep, rich flavour that comes with slow cooking and the sauce was a meaty gravy that tasted only mildly of fennel and tomatoes…if it weren’t for the salt, I would have given it an extra star.

I served it with (whole wheat) penne.

(1) useful  

Comments

aj12754 - 15th October 2012
This sounds a bit like a Nate Appleman recipe from his A16 cookbook -- also delicious although that one uses chicken thighs and pork, and skips the whole meatball-making stage.

I have this issue of the mag and was intrigued by this recipe because I love fennel in all forms -- would you cut the salt called for in the recipe in half or even more?

 

Zosia - 15th October 2012
I used 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt to flavour the meatballs but I think the real culprit was the broth which gets reduced from 4 cups to practically nothing....you can imagine how the salt concentrated. I would use unsalted broth next time.

 

aj12754 - 15th October 2012
Thanks for the response!

 

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